Crochetvolution

admin — Wed, 01 May 2013 22:16:04 +0000

A Letter from the Editor

FEATURES

Charitable Crochet: A Look at Project Linus

A Labor of Love

Turn Your Summer Into a Crochetcation

PATTERNS

Veranda Cardi

Cronivore Wrap

Thistle Water Bottle Cover

Summer Reading Bookmark

Tulips Aplenty Jumper

Calypso Necklace

Summer Triangle Shawl

Huff and Puff Puppets

Charitable Crochet: A Look at Project Linus

admin — Wed, 01 May 2013 22:14:26 +0000

Photo credit: crochetgal / Foter.com / CC BY-NC-ND

If you’ve ever searched for a place to send your crocheted things that will do some good, this segment is for you. Today we’re going to take a look at one of the most popular crochet-related charities in the United States, Project Linus.

Project Linus got its start in 1995. That was the year that Parade Magazine ran an article about a three year old girl, Laura, who had spent more than two-thirds of her young life undergoing intensive chemotherapy. She had a special ‘blankie’ that she took with her every time she went to the hospital. After reading the article, Karen Louks felt inspired to begin providing homemade security blankets to Denver’s Rocky Mountain Children’s Cancer Center. In the eighteen years since then, Project Linus has provided nearly four million blankets to children in need.

Photo credit: hddod / Foter.com / CC BY-NC-ND
Though it began by providing blankets to young cancer patients, Project Linus has expanded to nearly any hospital, social service, shelter, or child left in need by disaster. Project Linus ‘blanketeers’ donated handmade blankets to children affected by 9/11, Hurricane Katrina, the earthquakes in Haiti and the Japanese tsunami. If there is a disaster, you can bet that someone from Project Linus will be there, looking for children who need a blanket and a reminder that someone cares about them.

Project Linus will accept new, washable handmade afghans (knit or crochet), quilts, tied comforters, fleece blankets and receiving blankets in child-friendly colors and styles. All blankets must come from a smoke-free environment and be free of chemicals or strong odors.

Take a look! If you live in the United States, chances are good that there is a chapter or donation drop-off point in your area. If you would like to get involved with Project Linus, visit their website.

Summer Triangle Shawl

admin — Wed, 01 May 2013 22:14:18 +0000

By Anastacia Zittel

Model: Anastacia Zittel
Photos: Jonathan Zittel

Anyone who is familiar with my designs know that I love granny squares. This design came about as a result of playing with the simple granny stitch pattern – that, and a desire for a triangle shaped wrap that wasn’t a traditional triangle shape!

Difficulty: Beginner

Size: Version shown is 38″ deep by 52″ across

Materials:

Mystery fingering weight yarn, [20% cotton, 20% wool, 20% nylon, & 40% rayon, 7.9 ounces / 222 grams]
H/8 (5.0 mm size) crochet hook

Gauge: 16 stitches = 4″, specific gauge is not significant in this design.

Directions:

Ch 3, join with a sl st to form a circle.

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc, now and throughout), 2 dc in circle: 3 dc made.

Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch-1 sp, now and throughout), turn, sk dc, 3 dc in last dc: 4 dc
made.

Row 3: Ch 4, turn, sk 2 dc, 3 dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in last dc: 5 dc made.

Row 4: Ch 3, turn, 2 dc in ch 1 sp, ch 1, 2 dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in last dc: 6 dc made.

Row 5: Ch 4, turn, sk 2 dc, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in last dc: 7 dc made.

Row 6: Ch 4, turn, sk 2 dc, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in last dc: 8
dc made.

Row 7: Ch 3, turn, 2 dc in ch 1 sp, * ch 1, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, rep from * across row, ch 1, 3 dc in last dc.

Row 8 and 9: Ch 4, turn, sk 2 dc, * 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, rep from * across row, 3 dc in last
dc.

Row 10: Ch 4, turn, sk 2 dc, * 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, rep from * across row, dc in last dc.

Repeat Rows 7-10 as many times as desired.

Finishing: End off. Weave in ends, block lightly.

About the Designer

Anastacia Zittel loves to crochet, knit, dye yarn, & do a little spinning & embroidery from time to time. She also loves to read fantasy & historical fiction. She enjoys writing about her crafty adventures at Anastacia Knits. She’s been designing seriously since summer, 2010. To see more of her designs visit her shop, and stop by her group for support, CALs, inspiration, and more!

Cronivore

admin — Wed, 01 May 2013 22:14:15 +0000

By Cheri McEwen

Photos: Cheri and
Dustin McEwen
Model: Cheri McEwen and
her manneqin

Difficulty: Easy

I like Stephen West’s knitted shawls and am always trying to figure out a way to translate them into crochet. For this prototype, I used a DK weight yarn and a “J” hook. It is easily adjustable to a smaller gauge, if you want to use a sock yarn. Just work the central panel until it is half the depth you want the finished object to be, then start the secondary angles. The straight sections will have more stitches, but once you get started, it’s not hard at all. This is meant to be more of a recipe, although I have written out the directions line by line for a nice sized shawlette with the DK weight yarn. There is also the option of continuing the center panel without the side angles. One other thing about the pattern, it is reversible. Either way looks nice!

Size: Adjustable

Materials:

DK weight yarn, approx 500 yards for a shawlette (If using a lighter weight yarn, more yards will be required)
J/10 (6mm size) hook
Tapestry needle
Pins for blocking (optional)

Gauge: Gauge is not significant in this design.

Note: This pattern can be done to any size with any hook and yarn combination. Blocking is optional.

Directions

Row 1: Ch 4. (4 dc, ch 2, 5 dc) in fourth chain from hook, turn.

Row 2: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 3 sts, fpdc around next st. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc, dc in next 3 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 5 sts, bpdc in next 2 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, bpdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 5 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 4: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 7 sts, fpdc in next 3 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc in next 3 sts, dc in next 7 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 5: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 9 sts, bpdc in next 4 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, bpdc in next 4 sts, dc in next 9 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 6: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 11 sts, fpdc in next 5 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc in next 5 sts, dc in next 11 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 7: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 13 sts, bpdc in next 6 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, bpdc in next 6 sts, dc in next 13 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 8: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 15 sts, fpdc in next 7 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc in next 7 sts, dc in next 15 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 9: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 17 sts, bpdc in next 8 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, bpdc in next 8 sts, dc in next 17 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 10: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 19 sts, fpdc in next 9 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc in next 9 sts, dc in next 19 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 11: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 21 sts, bpdc in next 10 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, bpdc in next 10 sts, dc in next 21 sts, 3dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 12: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 23 sts, fpdc in next 11 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc in next 11 sts, dc in next 23 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 13: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 25 sts, bpdc in next 12 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, bpdc in next 12 sts, dc in next 25 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 14: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 27 sts, fpdc in next 13 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc in next 13 sts, dc in next 27 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 15: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 29 sts, bpdc in next 14 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, bpdc in next 14 sts, dc in next 29 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

At this point, the shawl may be continued as established or the following instructions may be used to make a shawl more like the original knit version.

Row 16: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, dc in next 30 sts, fpdc in next 15 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc in next 15 sts, dc in next 30 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 17: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, bpdc in next st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, bpdc in next st, dc in next 30 sts, bpdc in next 16 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, bpdc in next 16 sts, dc in next 30 sts, bpdc in next st. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, bpdc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 18: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 4 sts, fpdc next 2 sts, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, fpdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 30 sts, fpdc in next 17sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc in next 17 sts, dc in next 30 sts, fpdc in next 2 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, fpdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 19: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 6 sts, bpdc in next 3 sts, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, bpdc in next 3 sts, dc in next 30 sts, bpdc in next 18 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, bpdc in next 18 sts, dc in next 30 sts, bpdc in next 3 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, bpdc in next 3 sts, dc in next 6 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 20: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 8 sts, fpdc next 4 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, fpdc in next 4 sts, dc in next 30 sts, fpdc in next 19 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc in next 19 sts, dc in next 30 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, fpdc in next 4 sts, dc in next 8 sts, 3dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 21: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 10 sts, bpdc in next 5 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, bpdc in next 5 sts, dc in next 30 sts, bpdc in next 20 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, bpdc in next 20 sts, dc in next 30 sts, bpdc in next 5 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, bpdc in next 5 sts, dc in next 10 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 22: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 12 sts, fpdc next 6 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, fpdc in next 6 sts, dc in next 30 sts, fpdc in next 20 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc in next 20 sts, dc in next 30 sts, fpdc in next 6 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, fpdc in next 6 sts, dc in next 12 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 23: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 14 sts, bpdc in next 7 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, bpdc in next 7 sts, dc in next 30 sts, bpdc in next 21 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, bpdc in next 21 sts, dc in next 30 sts, bpdc in next 7 sts. (Dc, ch2, dc) in next st, bpdc in next 7 sts, dc in next 14 sts, 3dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 24: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 16 sts, fpdc next 8 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, fpdc in next 8 sts, dc in next 30 sts, fpdc in next 22 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc in next 22 sts, dc in next 30 sts, fpdc in next 8 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, fpdc in next 8 sts, dc in next 16 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 25: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 18 sts, bpdc in next 9 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, bpdc in next 9 sts, dc in next 30 sts, bpdc in next 23 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, bpdc in next 23 sts, dc in next 30 sts, bpdc in next 9 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, bpdc in next 9 sts, dc in next 18 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 26: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 20 sts, fpdc in next 10 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, fpdc in next 10 sts, dc in next 30 sts, fpdc in next 24 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc in next 24 sts, dc in next 30 sts, fpdc in next 10 sts. (Dc, ch-2, dc) in next st, fpdc in next 10 sts, dc in next 20 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 27: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 22 sts, bpdc in next 11 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, bpdc in next 11 sts, dc in next 30 sts, bpdc in next 25 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, bpdc in next 25 sts, dc in next 30 sts, bpdc in next 11 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, bpdc in next 11 sts, dc in next 22 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 28: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 24 sts, fpdc next 12 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, fpdc in next 12 sts, dc in next 30 sts, fpdc in next 26 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc in next 26 sts, dc in next 30 sts, fpdc in next 12 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, fpdc in next 12 sts, dc in next 22 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 29: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 26 sts, bpdc in next 13 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, bpdc in next 13 sts, dc in next 30 sts, bpdc in next 27 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, bpdc in next 27 sts, dc in next 30 sts, bpdc in next 13 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, bpdc in next 13 sts, dc in next 26 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 30: Ch 3. Make 2 dc in same st, dc in next 28 sts, fpdc next 14 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, fpdc in next 14 sts, dc in next 30 sts, fpdc in next 28 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc in next 28 sts, dc in next 30 sts, fpdc in next 14 sts. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, fpdc in next 14 sts, dc in next 28 sts, 3 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.

Row 31: Ch 1, sc in all stitches, working 3 sc into each ch-2 space. Turn.

Row 32: Ch 1, sc in back loops across row.

Fasten off, weave in ends, and block.

About the Designer
I have been designing for a couple of years in both crochet and knitting. I enjoy the process of putting things
together in new or different ways. My daughter keeps me busy, but I try to sit down and do a little bit each day.
It helps keep my sanity intact.

Turn Your Summer into a Crochetcation

admin — Wed, 01 May 2013 22:14:12 +0000

by Melissa Mall

Photo credit: meknits / Foter.com / CC BY

Today is the first day all year that is warm enough to call hot, and I find myself thinking about my summer projects. As far as I’m concerned, summer time is the best time of year to go a little crazy with my crocheting, for two reasons. One, I’m free from most of my project deadlines (cough Christmas cough) and two, since it’s not cold outside, I’m not trying to hurry and finish warm projects for my kids – who always want new hats or slippers or scarves or mittens in the winter. Summer is the season of freedom, and whether you’re laying out by the pool, taking a road trip, or just enjoying the long, warm days at home, here’s how you can make this summer a fabulous ‘Crochetcation.’

1: Make Something for Yourself!

It’s so easy to get sucked into a perpetual cycle of making things for other people. Someone needs a present. Someone needs socks. Someone is having a baby (and then someone else is), someone is having a birthday – you could literally spend every stitch you crochet making things for someone else. This is your crochetcation, why not make something for yourself?

2: Splurge a Little

And since you’re making something just for you, why not pick up something a little special to make it with? Something just a tiny bit nicer or softer or prettier than the yarn that you usually work with. Or, perhaps, if the budget allows, something wildly luxurious. You know, you can get a half-dozen skeins of Koigu or even an ounce of qiviut for less than the cost of a one-day pass to Disneyland. I’m just sayin’.

3: Try Something New

There’s nothing like a new skill or technique to make crochet feel fresh again. And just think of all the fun projects you could make if you finally got around to learning how to do tunisian, or tapestry crochet, or filet, or amigurumi, or clothes…and while we’re on the subject, why don’t you…

4: Experiment With Different Materials

You can step outside the yarn store and crochet with something crazy! From plastic bags to t-shirts, twine, rope, wire, or embroidery floss, working with a new material may help spark a little creativity and a lot of fun.

5: Check Your Local Yarn Stores for Classes and Events

If you are fortunate enough to have a good local yarn store, you may be able to sign up for classes or workshops over the summer. This serves a double purpose: it allows you to learn something new and possibly make some new friends who share your passion.

Whatever you choose to do, I hope you have a great summer filled with fun, friends, crocheting and – of course – yarn!

About the Author

Melissa Mall is an at-home mom with four sons eight and under. They have just completed yet another transcontinental move – hopefully it will be their last!!! You can keep up with their ordinary adventures over at her blog, or take a peek at her crochet patterns and tutorials at Inner Child Crochet.

A Labor of Love

admin — Wed, 01 May 2013 22:14:09 +0000

by Bonnie Irene

I think everyone’s first reaction when someone they care about is having a baby is “how can I help?” We all want to do our part and, as crafters, we want to do it ourselves.

Recently, my husband and I had our first child: a beautiful baby girl. Little did our daughter know that she would hit the mother lode! Our family is chock-full of crafters, and nearly all of them had something handmade to add to the pile of “baby stuff” that was eagerly awaiting her arrival from the hospital. Between the gifts we received, as well as the products of my own nesting efforts, we were very quickly stocked with all manner of homemade baby gear.

Having been the recipient (and creator) of so many homemade baby supplies, I can definitely say that it makes a big difference to me. Every time I use one of these extra-special gifts, I have remember the person who made each one. I feel their support in my daily life, and I remember them when I need to call on someone for help. You see, making someone a gift for their future little one isn’t just about making sure the baby has all the ‘stuff’ that babies need. It’s true, babies need a ton of stuff, but that’s not all. If it were just a matter of furnishing the baby’s future home, we’d all take a trip to the store and save ourselves the time. The reason that we make things for babies is to show that we love them and we’ll help take care of them. As a show of our willingness to help with the work of caring for them, we put in some or that work before they’re even born.

We, as crafters, know that homemade is better. Not just because of the quality of the product – whether it be a quilt, a table, or apple pie – but because you made it. You put something special, something unique, that only you could put into it. So, when we give these handmade things, not only is it an expression of love for the future baby, it’s also an expression of who we are. That hand-pieced quilt, the teeny little sweater or hat you crocheted — these are expressions of yourself, and they help to tell the story of who you are. They’re bits of your own personal culture, and part of preparing for a new baby is preparing the way to teach them about the world in which they live. To teach them about their family, and who they are, as individuals.

Making things for babies is a crafter’s way of expressing love, support, and a commitment to care, all conveniently wrapped up in something useful for the new mom. (Not that crocheting a cute little hat is a commitment to babysit, because crafting is something we do just for fun, too!) However, if you ask me: furnishing a baby with things lovingly made by hand is more about how much their new family and friends will love them than the fact that they needed a blanket.

About the Author
Bonnie Irene is a new mom stretching her finances through crafting. She likes to crochet, bake, draw, sew, sculpt and weave as well as other things: check out her projects at her blog!

Veranda Cardi

admin — Wed, 01 May 2013 22:13:23 +0000

By Melissa Mall

Photos: ‘Charlie’
Model: Melissa Mall

When it comes to crocheting clothing, I’m always looking for the ‘easy way out.’ The traditional idea of making a front (or two), the sleeves, a back, and piecing them all together – it’s just too finicky for me! So, when I hit upon the idea of making a short-sleeved cardigan out of two long rectangles, I was all over it. It’s worked in a mesh, so it’s fast, too!
Light and breezy for summer, this little cardi is perfect for throwing on over a tee or a sundress for just a little more coverage.

Difficulty: Intermediate

Size: S (M, L, XL, 2X) – Shown in size XL

Finished Measurements:
Chest: 33 (37, 41, 45, 49)”
Length: 20.5 (21, 21.5, 22, 22.5)”

Materials:

Peaches & Creme [100% Cotton, 120yds/110m per 70.9g/2.5oz skein]; From 10-14 oz in Ecru
K 10 1/2 6.50mm hook
Yarn Needle

Gauge: 11 sts/8 rows = 4″ in patt (dc/sc mesh)

Directions:

Rectangle (make 2)
To begin, ch 111 (113, 115, 117, 119).

Row 1: Skip 4 ch (counts as dc + ch 1). *Dc, ch 1, sk 1 ch. Repeat from * across until 1 ch remains. Dc in last ch.

Row 2: Ch 1. Sc in each st and ch-sp across, making last sc in ch from beginning. (111, 113, 115, 117, 119 sc) Turn.

Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), sk 2 sc. *Dc in next sc, ch 1, sk 1 sc. Repeat from * across. Dc in last dc. Turn.

Rep Rows 2 and 3 alternately for patt for a total of 13 (15, 17, 19, 21) rows, finish off.

Blocking before assembly is highly recommended.

To assemble, fold rectangles in half lengthwise. Sew edges together almost to fold to form the back. Sew edges together on sides, leaving room for the armhole. Try on frequently as you assemble to achieve a better fit.

Neck Edging: Neck edging is made working from front bottom corner up, around back of neck, and back down to opposite front bottom corner.

Row 1: Join at corner. Ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in each dc and ch-sp around until 1 ch-sp before back seam. Tr in ch-sp, tr in seam, tr in next ch-sp. Dc in dc and each ch-sp and dc across to end.

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in each dc and tr across. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in each dc across. Turn.

Row 4: Ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in each dc across until last dc. Place 4 dc in dc to create corner and continue to Bottom Edging.

Bottom Edging: Evenly space dc across edge of neck edge rows, bottom of cardi, and opposite neck edge rows until one row of opposite neck edge remains. Dc 4 in join between rows to form corner, join to first stitch of neck edge to join round. Finish off.

Arm Hole Edging (repeat for both): Join at underarm seam. Ch 2. Dc in each ch-sp and dc around. Join rnd, finish off.

Weave in all ends.

About the Designer

Melissa Mall is an at-home mom with four sons eight and under. They have just completed yet another transcontinental move – hopefully it will be their last!!! You can keep up with their ordinary adventures over at her blog, or take a peek at her crochet patterns and tutorials at Inner Child Crochet.

Calypso Necklace

admin — Wed, 01 May 2013 22:13:15 +0000

By Melissa Mall

Model and Photos: Melissa Mall

Too hot outside to work on that afghan? Pull out some beads and hemp (or thread, if that’s what you’ve got) and spend a pleasant half-hour making yourself a new necklace. It’s quick and fun, and once you get the hang of crocheting the beads on, you may suddenly think of a lot of other things you’d like to crochet with beads! (I know I did!)

Difficulty: Beginner

Size: Adjustable; 28″ as written.

Materials:

Approx. 5 yds 1mm hemp cord (fingering yarn or thicker crochet thread may be substituted)
B/1 (2.25mm size) hook
15 assorted beads, with holes large enough to fit over your crochet hook with a little room to spare.

Gauge: 5 ch = approx. 1″ in length. You may need to adjust your tension or your hook to match this. If your chains are tighter than this, adding extra chains

Special Stitch: Add bead: Insert hook through bead; yarn over, pull through bead and loop on hook. Yarn over, pull through loop on hook. (This should attach the bead to your cord with one strand on each side of it.)

Directions:

Make sure your initial slipknot leaves you with a tail 4-6″ long.

Chain 15, add bead. [Ch 5, add bead] 5 times. [Ch 3, add bead] 4 times. [Ch 5, add bead] 5 times, ch 15. Finish off, leaving a tail of yarn 4-6 inches long.

Tie beginning and end together securely, placing the knot as close to the chains as possible. Trim ends of knot, enjoy!

Huff and Puff Puppets

admin — Wed, 01 May 2013 22:13:12 +0000

By Melissa Mall

Photos: Melissa Mall

“Little pig, little pig, let me in!”

“No, no, not by the hair of my chinny-chin-chin!”

“Then I’ll huff, and I’ll puff, and I’ll blow your house in!”

Piggy puppets go flying as the big bad wolf pretends to blow them away, and my two preschoolers giggle delightedly. Not bad for a few scraps of yarn, right?

These simple puppets have been designed to eliminate as much assembly as possible, with ears and tails crocheted right onto the little yarn bodies. Because who has time to sew when the wolf has houses to blow down?

Difficulty: Intermediate

Size: One Size

Materials:

Red Heart Super Saver [100% Acrylic; 364yd/333m per 7oz/198g skein]; Rose Pink (20 yds), Gray Heather (10 yds), White (5 yds), Small Amount Black
6-strand Embroidery Floss, 6 yds pink, small amount blue
H/8 (5.00mm size) hook
4/2.00mm hook
Small amount stuffing or fiberfill
Yarn Needle

Gauge: Gauge is not significant in this design – just make sure your puppets fit on your fingers!

Note: Puppets are worked in a continuous spiral, do not join rnds unless directed.

Directions:

PIG
Body:

Rnd 1: With pink RHSS and H hook, make a magic loop: place 8 sc in center. Pull tight. (I recommend crocheting over your end so you don’t have to weave it in later.)

Rnds 2-8: Sc in each st around.

Sl st 2 sts, finish off.

Caution: this is a left-handed illustration. Right- handed crocheters may need to mirror the image.

Ears:
Join, ch 2, hdc, sl st across 2, ch 2, hdc in next space, sl st in same space. Finish off. (See illustration at right for help.)

Tail:
With pink embroidery floss and small hook join at back, wherever you’d like the tail to be. Ch 11. Make 2 sc in each ch across. Finish off, secure to puppet body.

Nose:
With pink embroidery floss and small hook, ch 3. Make 12 dc in 3rd ch from hook, join rnd. Finish off, leaving a tail of thread. Sew nose to pig body.

Eyes:
With blue embroidery floss, embroider eyes where desired.

WOLF
Body:

Rnd 1: With gray yarn and larger hook, make magic loop: place 12 sc in center and pull tight. (I recommend crocheting over your end now so you don’t have to weave it in later.)

Rnds 2-10: Sc in each st around.

sl st 2 sts, finish off.

Nose:

Rnd 1: With white yarn and larger hook, make a magic loop. Place 8 sc in center and pull tight.

Rnds 2-3: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (8 sc) Join rnd.

Row 4: Ch 1. Working in front loop only, place 2 sc in each of the next 5 sts. Finish off.

Ears:
With gray join for ears (see pig diagram for help). Ch 3. Hdc in same spot, sc in same spot, sl st in next spot, sc in same spot, hdc in next spot, ch 3, join at base of stitch, finish off.

Stuff nose, sew to body. Weave in ends. With black yarn, embroider nose and eyes.

Thistle Water Bottle Cover

admin — Wed, 01 May 2013 22:13:04 +0000

By Anastacia Zittel

Photos: Anastacia Zittel

During the summer, more than any other time of the year, hydration is important, but there’s no reason to settle for a plain water bottle. You can keep it close at hand as well as stylishly insulated with this simple wool water bottle cover!

Difficulty: Easy

Size: 2.5″ x 6.75″ inches, fits 16 oz/1 pint water bottle

Materials:

MC: Moda Dea Washable Wool (\[100% superwash wool; 166 yards/152 meters per 100 g skein]: Plum, 30 grams
CC: Moda Dea Washable Wool (\[100% superwash wool; 166 yards/152 meters per 100 g skein], Raspberry, 20 grams
Size G (4.5 mm) crochet hook

Gauge: After first 5 rounds, circle measures 2.5″ across in single crochet

Note: Water bottle cover is worked in the round & is not turned after each round.

Directions:

With MC, start with a magic loop.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in loop, join with a sl st.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around, join with a sl st to first sc.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, * sc in 1st sc, 2 sc in next sc, rep from * around, join with a sl st to first sc.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, * sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, rep from * around, join with a sl st to first sc.

Rnd 5: Ch 1, * sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, rep from * around, join with a sl st to first sc.

Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in BLO in each sc around, join with a sl st to first sc.

Rnds 7-10: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join with a sl st to first sc, changing to CC in last stitch. Do not cut MC.

Rnd 11: With CC, ch 1, sc in ea sc around, join with a sl st to first sc, changing to MC in last stitch. Do not cut CC.

Rnd 12: Ch 1, * sc with MC, sc with CC, rep from * around.

Rnd 13: With CC, ch 1, sc in each sc around, join with a sl st to first sc, changing to MC in last stitch. Do not cut CC.

Rnds 14-34: Repeat rounds 7-13 three times more, cutting CC after last pattern repeat.

Rnds 35-37: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join with a sl st to first sc.

Rnd 38: Ch 1, sc in first sc, * ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next sc. Rep from * around, ch 1, join with a sl st to first sc.

Rnd 39: Ch 1, sc in first sc, * sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next sc. Rep from * around, join with a sl st to first sc. End off.

Finishing
Weave in ends. With MC, make a chain approximately 20” long (100 chains) or desired length, and thread through eyelets formed in Rnd 31.

About the Designer

Anastacia Zittel loves to crochet, knit, dye yarn, & do a little spinning & embroidery from time to time. She also loves to read fantasy & historical fiction. She enjoys writing about her crafty adventures at Anastacia Knits. She’s been designing seriously since summer, 2010. To see more of her designs visit her shop, and stop by her group for support, CALs, inspiration, and more!

Crochetvolution

Contents

Charitable Crochet: A Look at Project Linus

Summer Triangle Shawl

Cronivore

Turn Your Summer into a Crochetcation

A Labor of Love

Veranda Cardi

Calypso Necklace

Huff and Puff Puppets

Thistle Water Bottle Cover